A sapphire set into a wooden ring can stand up to daily wear without much fuss. When it's time to clean the ring, the wood around the stone needs a little more care than the sapphire itself.
That's true of many hard gemstones. The stones I use for everyday rings generally sit at 7 or higher on the Mohs hardness scale. They resist scratches well, though they can still chip if they take a hard knock.
Cleaning the Stone
Fossilized Brain Coral and Ebony Ring with Black Diamond
A soft cloth takes care of the dust and skin oil that collect on a stone. If dirt builds up around its edge, I use a soft brush with warm, soapy water.
Cleaning the stone means getting the wood around it wet, too. I finish my wooden pieces with Odie's Oil, which slows water from getting into the wood. A quick wash and rinse is fine, but I don't leave the piece soaking. Afterward, I dry it with a soft cloth. My wooden jewelry care guide explains more about how the finish protects the wood.
If the piece also has antler or shell, I follow the gentler cleaning advice for that material. Antler scratches easily, for example, so I keep the brush off it.
I wouldn't put a wooden piece in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Both are too aggressive for the wood, and they can loosen the stone in its setting.
Why a Hard Stone Can Split
Hardness tells you how well a stone resists scratches. A blow puts a different kind of force on it, and some stones are more vulnerable to that force than their hardness would suggest.
Topaz is one example. The atoms in its crystal are held together more strongly in some directions than others. A hard blow can split the stone along a weaker plane, even though its surface resists scratches. Diamond has weak planes in its crystal structure, too.
I set each stone in a gold bezel, a wall of metal that wraps around its edge. The bezel helps protect the edge from chips, though I still take a piece off before an activity where it might get knocked hard.
Storing Your Jewelry
The same hardness that helps a stone resist scratches can make it a hazard to the pieces stored beside it. A sapphire rubbing against a softer surface can leave a mark. Mother of pearl is especially easy to scratch.
It's good to keep each piece in its own soft pouch so they can't rub against one another. My storage guide has more on keeping wooden jewelry between wears.
Sunlight and Color
Crushed Mother of Pearl and Purpleheart Wood Necklace with Amethyst
Most hard gemstones hold their color in light. Amethyst and citrine are exceptions: prolonged, intense light can fade them. I wouldn't leave a piece with either stone sitting in a sunny window for long stretches.
When a Stone Needs Attention
If a stone clicks or moves in its setting, bring the piece back to me. A loose stone is easier to fix when caught early. A chipped edge or a gap where the bezel meets the wood is worth a look, too. If you bring a piece back to the shop I'll recondition it at no charge.
If you're considering a gemstone for a custom piece, book a consultation. We can talk about the best stone and setting for how you plan to wear your piece.
Sources for this post: the GIA's guidance on gemstone care, durability, and settings.
