You know figured wood when you see it. The grain stops you mid-scroll. The patterns pull your eye. Something about the wood just looks different.
Figuring refers to the patterns, textures, and optical effects in wood grain. Growth irregularities cause it. Genetics play a role. Environmental factors contribute. The result is wood that looks like art instead of building material.
For jewelry, figuring matters more than it does for furniture or flooring. A ring face might be half an inch wide. A pendant might be an inch tall. That small canvas concentrates the figure. Every pattern shows up prominently. You're essentially wearing a tiny gallery of natural patterns.
The Crow Ring (Amboyna Burl Wood & Continuum Silver Band)
Figuring also affects rarity and price. Plain wood is common. Highly figured wood is not. A sawmill might process hundreds of boards before finding one with dramatic figure. That scarcity gets reflected in the cost.
This guide covers the major types of wood figuring you'll encounter in jewelry. We'll look at bubble patterns like pomelle and burl. We'll examine wave patterns like curly and quilted. We'll explore optical effects like chatoyance. We'll discuss irregular patterns like spalting and landscape figure.
Each type brings something different to jewelry. Understanding the differences helps you choose wood that matches your aesthetic preferences and lifestyle.
Bubble and Cellular Patterns
Burl
Burl is chaos in wood form. The grain swirls in every direction. You get tight knots, eyes, and patterns that never settle into predictable lines.
We stabilize burl with resin to make it durable enough for daily wear. Once stabilized, it's as tough as any other wood we use. This process is necessary because burl grain runs in multiple directions. That makes the raw material more prone to cracking without treatment.
A burl forms when stress triggers an abnormal response. Injury can cause it. So can viral or fungal infection. The result is a bulbous mass with incredibly dense figure.
Almost any species can produce burl. You'll find it in maple and walnut. Redwood burl comes from the California coast. Oak burls show up regularly too.
For jewelry, burl gives you maximum complexity. There's more visual information packed into a square inch of burl than any other figure type. Every piece is genuinely one of a kind.
Learn More: The Beauty of Burl: From Imperfection to Art
Pomelle (Pommele)
Image Courtesy of Oakwood Veneer Company
Pomelle looks like water droplets frozen across the surface of wood. You'll see circular patterns that overlap and flow into each other. Some people say it resembles bubbles in champagne.
The pattern comes from irregular interlocking grain. We're not entirely sure why some trees develop it.
Bubinga is the most famous species for pomelle figure. Sapele and Makore show it too. Each species brings its own color to the pattern. Bubinga tends toward reddish-brown while Sapele leans purple.
The Crown Ring - Pomelle Bubinga & Brass Wedding Band
For jewelry, pomelle delivers serious visual impact in a small space. A ring that's half an inch wide can show a dozen distinct bubbles. The depth is real. You're not looking at a flat pattern. The light catches different layers depending on the angle.
No two sections are identical. Cut one inch to the left or right on the same board and you get a completely different arrangement of bubbles.
Learn More: Pomelle Bubinga: One of Nature's Rarest Wood Figures
Birdseye
Image Courtesy of birdseyemaplewood.com
Birdseye figure shows up as small circular marks scattered across the surface. They look like tiny eyes watching you. Hence the name.
Nobody knows exactly what causes birdseye. The leading theories point to dormant buds that never developed. Fungal activity is another possibility. Some researchers think it's genetic.
Maple produces the most famous birdseye figure. Birch and ash show it too. Birdseye maple has been prized for centuries in furniture making and instrument building.
The pattern works well in jewelry because it's immediately recognizable. Show someone birdseye maple and they know what they're looking at. The eyes are delicate but distinctive. They create visual interest without overwhelming a small piece.
Wave and Stripe Patterns
Curly / Tiger Stripe
Image Courtesy of Rare Woods USA
Curly figure creates alternating light and dark stripes that run perpendicular to the grain. The stripes catch light differently as you rotate the piece. This gives the surface a three-dimensional ripple effect.
The pattern comes from wavy grain orientation. Instead of growing straight, the grain undulates. Each wave reflects light at a different angle.
Maple shows curly figure beautifully. Koa does too. You'll also find it in walnut and mango. Each species brings different base colors to the striping effect.
For jewelry, curly figure provides strong visual movement. The piece changes as you move your hand. Dramatic shifts happen under direct light. Even subtle indoor lighting brings out the stripes.
Quilted
Quilted figure looks like a pillowy surface. Imagine a quilted blanket translated into wood. You get billowing shapes that create serious depth perception.
This is essentially an extreme version of curly figure. The depth variation is more pronounced. The peaks and valleys are tighter. The overall effect is more three-dimensional.
Maple produces spectacular quilted figure. Sapele and mahogany show it too. Quilted maple especially commands high prices because the figure is relatively rare.
For jewelry, quilted figure delivers incredible depth in a small piece. A ring face might only be half an inch across. You'll still see multiple layers of dimension. The effect is striking up close.
Fiddleback
Image Courtesy of M. Bohlke Veneer Corp
Fiddleback is tight, uniform curly figure. The stripes are consistent and regular. Violin makers prize this pattern. That's where the name comes from.
The cause is the same as curly figure. The difference is in consistency. Fiddleback shows more regular spacing and more uniform stripe width.
Maple is traditional for fiddleback. Sycamore produces it. Claro walnut can show beautiful fiddleback too.
For jewelry, fiddleback offers elegant refinement. The pattern has musical heritage. It's less wild than burl. Less dramatic than quilted. But it has its own sophisticated appeal. The stripes create movement without demanding attention.
Ribbon / Ribbon Stripe
Image Courtesy of Cook Woods
Ribbon figure shows alternating lustrous bands along the length of the grain. The bands shift as you change your viewing angle. One moment they're light. The next they're dark.
The pattern comes from interlocked grain cut on the quarter. The grain alternates direction in layers. Each layer reflects light differently.
Sapele is known for ribbon figure. African mahogany shows it too. Many tropical species develop interlocked grain that produces the effect.
For jewelry, ribbon figure provides subtle sophistication. The shimmer is gentle. Not every lighting condition shows it clearly. But when it catches the light right, the piece comes alive. The movement is refined rather than bold.
Optical Effects
Chatoyance
Image Courtesy of Hearne Hardwoods
Chatoyance is a moving band of light across the surface. It looks like a cat's eye. Rotate the piece and the bright band moves with it.
The effect requires highly aligned grain fibers. When they do, they reflect light directionally instead of scattering it.
Many species can show chatoyance. It depends more on how the wood is cut and oriented than on the specific species. The grain alignment is what matters.
For jewelry, chatoyance means the piece literally glows. The bright band shifts as you wear it. Your hand moves and the light follows. It's an active visual effect rather than a static pattern.
Learn More: Chatoyance: What is This Mesmerizing Effect?
Bee's Wing
Image Courtesy of Brian Boggs Chairmakers
Bee's wing figure shows up as tiny, tight mottle across the surface. The texture resembles the delicate structure of an actual bee's wing. Hence the name.
Very fine interlocked grain creates the effect. The grain changes direction at a microscopic level. This produces a subtle shimmer rather than bold stripes.
Narra is famous for bee's wing figure. Satinwood shows it. Some mahogany displays it too.
For jewelry, bee's wing offers refined subtlety. The shimmer is delicate. You won't see bold visual movement. Instead you get a gentle glow that adds depth without demanding attention. It's uncommon enough to be interesting but subtle enough to work with any style.
Irregular and Organic Patterns
Spalting
Spalted wood shows black zone lines, white rot areas, and color variations from fungal activity. The fungi essentially paint the wood before we harvest and stabilize it.
Controlled decay creates spalting. We have to catch it at exactly the right moment. Too early and there's no pattern. Too late and the wood is too soft to use. The fungi need time to create the lines but not enough time to destroy structural integrity.
We stabilize spalted wood with resin. This is mandatory. The spalting process softens the wood. Stabilization hardens it back to a durable state. Once treated, spalted wood is tough enough for daily wear in jewelry.
Maple spalts beautifully. So does birch and beech. Actually, any species can spalt given the right conditions. Maple just happens to show the black zone lines most dramatically against its light background.
For jewelry, spalting provides bold graphic patterns. The lines are crisp. The contrast is strong. Nature literally painted these patterns. Each piece is artistic by default.
Crotch Figure
Crotch figure shows feather or flame-like patterns. You get dramatic sweeping lines that radiate outward. The effect can be subtle or spectacular depending on the specific piece.
The figure forms where a trunk splits into branches. Grain gets compressed and redirected at the junction. That compression creates the flame patterns.
Walnut produces impressive crotch figure. Mahogany does too. Cherry can show beautiful feathering. The pattern is inherently rare. Each tree only has a few crotches. The usable figured area is limited.
For jewelry, crotch figure delivers drama. The flame patterns draw the eye. The rarity adds to the appeal. You can't farm crotch figure. You take what nature provides.
Landscape / Topographical Figure
Image courtesy of Savage Woods
Landscape figure looks like aerial maps or topographical contours. You see patterns that resemble mountains, valleys, and terrain features. Some pieces look like satellite imagery.
End-grain cuts reveal growth ring patterns in this way. Specific grain orientations also bring out the effect. The rings become visible as contour lines.
Ziricote is famous for landscape figure. The patterns are consistently dramatic. Bocote shows it too. Olive wood can display topographical effects. Each species brings different colors and contrast levels.
For jewelry, landscape figure is a conversation starter. People ask what they're looking at. The patterns are recognizable as maps or terrain. You're wearing a piece of geography. The effect is both natural and surreal.
Learn More: Ziricote Wood - A Natural Topographical Map
How Figuring Affects Your Jewelry Choice
Rarity and Pricing
More dramatic figure costs more. This isn't arbitrary. Figured wood is genuinely rarer than plain wood. A sawmill might process a thousand board feet of maple. Only a few boards will show quilted figure. Maybe one shows bird's eye.
The labor involved also increases. Highly figured wood is harder to work. The grain changes direction constantly. Tools dull faster. Sanding takes longer. More pieces crack during production.
Burl costs more than straight grain. Quilted costs more than curly. Pomelle commands premium prices. This pricing reflects actual scarcity and production difficulty.
Personal Meaning
Figure choice is personal. Some people love the organic chaos of burl. Others prefer the refined elegance of fiddleback. Neither is better. They appeal to different sensibilities.
Burl attracts people who appreciate complexity and uniqueness. Every glance reveals new details. The piece never gets boring.
Straight-grained woods appeal to minimalists. The focus stays on form and finish rather than pattern. The wood supports the design instead of dominating it.
Figured woods fall everywhere in between. Curly adds movement without overwhelming. Spalting brings artistry. Chatoyance provides interactive visual effects.
Choose figure that resonates with you personally. You'll be wearing this piece regularly. It should match your aesthetic preferences and lifestyle.
Caring for Figured Wood Jewelry
Highly figured woods need the same basic care as any wooden jewelry. Keep them away from water. Take them off before showering or swimming. Remove them before washing dishes.
Some figured woods have more grain variation than others. Burl grain runs in multiple directions. This means oil can absorb unevenly. Apply oil to the entire piece. Let it soak in for a few minutes. Wipe off the excess.
Spalted wood is fully stabilized with resin. The care is actually simpler than natural wood. The resin coating protects the wood. You mainly need to avoid scratching the surface.
Store figured wood jewelry in a dry place. A jewelry box works fine. Keep pieces separate to prevent scratching. Wood is softer than metal. A wooden ring stored next to metal rings will get scratched.
Check your pieces periodically. Look for dull spots or dry areas. Apply a small amount of wood oil or wax when needed. This keeps the finish looking fresh and protects the wood.
The visual complexity of figured wood doesn't require complex care. The same basic principles apply. Keep it dry. Oil it occasionally. Store it carefully. Your figured wood jewelry will last for decades.
Learn More: How to Store Wooden Jewelry to Last A Lifetime
Conclusion
The Crown Ring (Amboyna Burl Wood & 14k Yellow Gold Band)
Figuring transforms wood from raw material into natural art. The patterns emerge from how the wood grew. They can't be manufactured or faked. Each figured piece captures a specific moment in a specific tree's history.
The types covered here represent the most common and most dramatic figures you'll find in wooden jewelry. Pomelle and burl offer maximum visual complexity. Curly and quilted provide elegant movement. Chatoyance creates interactive light effects. Spalting brings bold graphics. Landscape figure resembles miniature terrain maps.
Your choice depends on personal preference. Some people want maximum visual impact. Others prefer subtle sophistication. Both approaches work. The wood should match your style rather than fighting against it.
If you're drawn to specific figure types mentioned here, we offer custom pieces that let you choose specific figured woods. You can select the exact figure type that appeals to you. The process involves looking at actual wood samples rather than generic photos. That way you see exactly what you're getting. Contact us if you want to discuss options for a custom figured wood piece.
